SHIMANO Special grease for pawl-type Freehub bodies 50 g,White

Product Information

I've noticed my freehub has gotten quite a bit louder over the last few months. Several people have recommended that I lubricate the freewheel by tipping the bike on its side and dripping lubricant into the freewheel. However, I've gotten differing opinions on what to use for a lubricant. Can you tell us a couple of the specific lube practices you use with Kate’s race bikes that you might not use on a customer’s? Install axle and assemble non-drive side parts. Axle should turn smoothly with no side-to-side motion after adjustment. Not all freehubs are alike so you basically have the classic Campa pawls and ratchet system, DT Swiss' is pretty unique, Mavic, Extralite use a synthetic material (Delrin, I think it is) close to or going partly into the hub's shell. No doubt there are other variations on the theme out there. It performs consistently across a wide temperature range and its light viscosity ensure enhanced protection and reduced resistance.

Shimano freehubs can be serviced to an extent, but when they’re worn out, you’ll officially need a whole new freehub as they’re not designed to be disassembled, even if it is technically possible. Freehubs from Campagnolo and other brands are easier to service. You’ll also need to use a spacer if you want to run an MTB cassette on an 11-speed road freehub, as Shimano/SRAM MTB freehubs are slightly narrower. Chris King hubs have a ratchet system that works in a similar way, but with either 45 or 72 points of engagement, for ultra-fast take-up, once you start to pedal. With this design, it’s the inboard ratchet that slides on the hub to engage the freewheel, giving Chris King hubs their characteristic bulge on the right side. Most bikes allow you to stop pedalling but keep moving, or “coast”. For bikes equipped with derailleur gears, that’s usually thanks to a freehub.

Additionally, the lighter lubricants will assist in reduced rotating friction. As you might have already noticed, the DT Swiss freehubs are not the best free-spinning rear wheels, so they can always use a little help. One thing that you will notice is how much quieter they will be. Some prefer the louder freehubs to the quieter ones. I prefer the stealth mode. It may be considered cute to have a noisy ratchet but it will likely slow you down whilst coasting. You'd want a higher viscosity grease on the pawls than you'd use in your bearings but you'd better verify the pawls pop up correctly.

Opportunities to extend a freehub to fit a wider cassette are more limited though, with only the Campagnolo N3W system providing an adaptor to allow this. Lazy design. probably meant to justify a more expensive hub with an inner spacer in and a drive ring with a few more points. Freewheel (old technology) or freehub (current technology)? People tend to use the terms interchangeably, but they are quite different.Our Classic Freehub Grease is specifically designed for all freehubs that require a light weight grease. These style hubs we like to call the more mechanical hubs. Unlike the simpler, fewer parts of the Pawl style hubs. Dumonde Tech Freehub Grease performs in a broad temperature range from the heat of summer, to the frigid temperatures of the north. “Pour Point” of Freehub Grease is -30 degrees. The N3W freehub, pictured, is a shortened version of Campagnolo’s existing road design. Matthew Loveridge / Immediate Media Micro Spline gave Shimano the freedom to use alloy rather than steel for the freehub body. Alex Evans / Our Media About any good GP grease will do. The Phil grease is liked by a lot of people because it tends to stay where you put it for a long time. The stuff you saw at your LBS might be Park Tool PolyLube. I personally like Motorex 2000 grease for about everything where a GP grease is indicated.

I was thinking of trying Belray Waterproof grease because of its Washout and other properties (it is excellent on bearings) any oil really (just not wd40!). general purpose oil will work, like 3-1. whatever you have around. Sometimes on BHS/Bitex hubs the bearings have not been fully seated in the hub shell. They're close but not quite. So when the axle end caps are tightened there is a little too much preload on the bearing. Not enough to damage the bearings but enough to make a noticeable difference in wheel spin down. Whether there is a difference under a rider is open to debate. Hi 5 8 5, I wonder how similar RnR Red Devil and Super Web grease are. I have some RnR Super Web grease and I also have some Belray Waterproof grease. With Shimano’s move to 12-speed in its newest Dura-Ace Di2 R9200 groupsets, the components company has updated its Hyperglide freehub design.BTW if a) and the oil runs out brown, then there is already corrosion inside the freehub body and you need to use the best lubricant you can find (best meaning with the most corrosion inhibitors in it). FWIW 'gritty' sounds often come from quite small amounts of dirt on the LHS of the freehub body. The dirt doesn't have to get into the bearings to make a noise, so a nasty sound isn't anything to definitely be worried by. Often if you try and clean this area it just forces dirt into the gap and this means that noise-wise you can 'make things worse'. Purging with oil and riding as suggested often shifts any crud that is in the small gap and normal service is usually soon resumed.

It’s really little more than an ornate way of defining a numerical scale used for classifying the consistency of lubricating greases, based on the ASTM D217 worked penetration at 25°C (77°F). Anyone who looked into the drag of a RW with or without the effect of the added freewheel will agree that the additional drag brought on by almost all freehubs is not subtle. Basically a good quality oil is always better but it also will be displaced and dissolved more easily so it requires more frequent maintenance.Next up you grease the second spring and spring and replace it in the freehub body, again with the wider end going in first. There’s more potential for wear with a pawl system, as there are a small number of mating surfaces rather than the multiple intermeshing teeth of the ratchet. If one of the pawls fails or doesn’t engage effectively, there’s a greater risk of damage to the freehub’s internals and the freehub failing. IMHO it is definitely a bad idea to use a #2 grease in a freehub body. It dramatically increases the chances of only one pawl engaging (instead of both) and If the freehub slips even once under load, it can be broken. If the motion gets freer by virtue of the grease thinning, the same thing would be required every time you ride the bike or even start pedalling again having freewheeled for the first time after a long climb or whatever. You think you are free and clear and it just takes the grease to dry out a bit or the weather to turn cold and you are in the poop again. It is most likely that the grease is pushed out of the way when the freehub appears to be working normally; needless to say it is a far better idea not to put it in there in the first place.